Safe climbing using an autobelay

Connect – and double check

The main cause of accidents involving autobelays is that the climber has forgotten to secure him/herself in the belay. Therefore it is important to carry out an additional check of the harness and connections before starting a climb. Pay special attention to the carabiner from the autobelay, make sure this is connected and secured in the main loop. A good idea is to get a fellow climber to check it for you (buddy check).

Focus your attention

Use all of your senses, including your eyes and ears when climbing. Leave out the earbuds and music! If you block your ability to hear you can fail to hear critical calls, information or instructions.

Follow the climbing route specific to your autobelay, to avoid a swing fall.

Check the brake

When you begin, climb a short distance and descend again. This test will make sure that the arrester brake works as it should. Before you descend from the top, make an extra check of your harness and ensure all connections are in order before you make a controlled descent. Remember to check that nobody is in your path and the area where you plan to land. Give a clear instruction if anyone is in the way.

Attach the rope to the warning banner when you have finished. The rope must not be attached to anything else, not even temporarily.

Checklist for climbing with an autobelay

• Connect yourself to the safety line
• Check your equipment
• Carry out a buddy check
• Check that the brake is functioning properly
• Follow the climbing route specific to your autobelay
• Use all of your senses, including your eyes and ears when you climb
• Check that the harness and connections are in order before descending
• Look down, check that your landing area is clear
• Attach the rope to the warning banner when you have finished your climb.

What is an autobelay?

An autobelay is a self-belaying system that allows climbers to climb quickly and effectively without the need for a belaying partner. The climber connects to a wire or tape installed in a reel which is attached at the top of the climbing wall. The reel pulls in the wire as the climber ascends. In the event of a fall, the reel will arrest the wire. When the climbing route is completed and the climber is in the harness, the reel will release the wire allowing a controlled descent.